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Solon Economou

"Out and about on Cape Cod." What's happening, what's hot, and what's not. Reviews and opinions on everything.
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Restaurant review: Two "Thumbs Up," one "Thumbs Down"

It's that time of year when we've said goodbye to the seasonal restaurants and start concentrating on the year-round establishments again.  In fact, I like to stick to them as much as I can, because I want them to remain open and they typically care enough to consistently satisfy the local clientele.  This is a year-end review of three restaurants which I've regularly patronized.  In fact, I've regularly brought visitors to Cape Cod to all three.

Yarmouth House Restaurant, Rte 28, West Yarmouth.  THUMBS UP.  The Yarmouth House continues to be my favorite.  From your greeting by Ted Zambelis or your host, Fred, as you enter, to the superb wait staff, to the exquisite food and atmosphere, the Yarmouth House is consistently top-notch.

Visitors from Williamsburg, Virginia, whom I recently brought there, gave it a "four-star" rating.  It is my Number One place to bring visitors; reasonably priced, and elegant but casual at the same time.  And always decorated to fit the season.  Not least, the wait staff even manages to tolerate my sense of humor.

I often have the half-duckling, crisp.  It is one of the few restaurants on the Cape where I can find it.  The prime rib is always superb, as are the mussels (to which I am allergic-I have to take my friends' word for that) with linguini.  I give Yarmouth House an enthusiastic "Thumbs Up."

Oliver's, Rte 6A, Yarmouth Port.  THUMBS UP.  Another consistently good restaurant, with a wonderful atmosphere and a varied menu.  They feature a good seafood menu with a listed "Catch of the Day."  Again, reasonably priced.

One unique feature is the choice of two differently-sized servings on some of their specials, at two prices, to accommodate those who may want a smaller portion.  Hint:  order the regular (larger) size and take what you can't eat home for lunch the next day.

Visitors were also happy with Oliver's--this is also a measure for my rating--how strangers to the Cape like a restaurant.

The wait staff has still to figure out my sense of humor, but Oliver's gets a "Thumbs Up."

Sundancer's, Rte 28, Dennisport.  THUMBS DOWN.  Sundancer's is near my home, and I have been taking people there for years.  The food is not gourmet, but fair, as are the prices. 

However, on my next-to-last visit, the food was surprisingly unappetizing.  Recognizing that  everyone has a bad night, I went back again, bringing a visitor from Texas who wanted some Cape Cod "lobstah."  After all, how badly can they screw up a boiled lobster?

When the lobsters came, each plate had (no kidding!) from THREE to FIVE French fries and about a teaspoon of cole slaw.  I used to own a restaurant, and I know these are the most inexpensive items to prepare.  Restaurants typically top off a plate with French fries to fill it. 

Kathy politely asked the waitress (not one of the young seasonal waitresses--don't blame them--but a middle-aged woman who should have known better), "Are these all the French fries we get?"

The waitress growled, "You're paying for the lobster!" and stomped off.  What the hell does that even mean?

My Texas visitor was absolutely flabbergasted at her rudeness, as was I, as was Kathy.  On my last two visits, Sundancer's seemed to be screaming, "We DON'T care for your business anymore!"  I'm happy to oblige.  Sundancer's gets a very strong "Thumbs Down." 

 

11 comments
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11/03/07 @ 10:18 am
Monponsett [Member] writes:
I'd only go to Sundancers to get blotto.
11/05/07 @ 7:58 am
wavemaker [Member] writes:
Haven't been to Sundancers since whats-his-name owned it, and wouldn't go back. Nice setting, though.
11/05/07 @ 8:16 am
Buzz [Member] writes:
Snowden's Horsefoot Cove....good drinking place, wouldn't eat there.
11/05/07 @ 8:30 am
susan [Member] writes:
Compass Rose Summer Shanty next door at Bass River Marina is much better. Good drinking and eating! :)
google compassrosesummershanty
11/05/07 @ 8:46 am
Solon [Member] writes:
Susan,

I've been there and I agree. I tend to forget about it because it is back out of the way. But I think it's seasonal--correct me if I'm wrong.
11/05/07 @ 9:49 am
susan [Member] writes:
Yes, it is seasonal. Doesn't Sundancers close part of the season? I remember the re opening parties when I was a tad younger...well I kinda remember them ;) Villa Roma is always a favorite with my guests.The food is consistently excellent, and as always, Harry is entertaining lol
11/05/07 @ 10:18 am
wolfram [Member] writes:
We live quite close to Oliver's so it's a fall-back when you just don't feel like cooking. We never eat in the dining room because I think there is a minimum age of about 76.

The bar is comfortable (bar seating and several tables). The bartenders are quite nice and attentive and they do bring in other servers to help out if it gets busy.

The menu is okay. You have to know what is good. Some entrees are a little odd, but you can't go wrong with a sandwich, burger and some of the chicken entrees.

But the best thing there, hands down is the soup. It is ALWAYS very good, no matter what kind. I swear they have their own soup Nazi in the back.

Monday-Thursday is pretty quiet (but not dead, there are always folks in there), but beware, Friday and Saturday nights they often have cheezy lounge singers in there "entertaining". Kind of like Captain and Tenille without Tenille.
11/05/07 @ 10:35 am
Solon [Member] writes:
Wolfram,

Thanks for the heads up about lounge singers. I usually go to Oliver's during a weeknight, Tuesday thru Thursday, like you, when we don't feel like cooking. On weekends, I've apparently left before the entertainment came on because I don't recall any.

I usually leave early anywhere I go unless there's some really talented entertainers, like Johnny Salerno. In fact, his Big Swing Band will be playing at Salerno's (no relation) in Onset this Sunday night. I will be there. Check out Johnny at www.johnsalernomusic.com. (He is a dear old high school chum.)

C-mon, not 76! Some just look that old.
11/05/07 @ 10:43 am
wolfram [Member] writes:
Fair enough, Solon. 68?

As for the entertainment, I'm not entirely sure how frequent it is. If we eat at Oliver's it is usually a Monday or Wednesday. But I do remember the lounge lizard because I almost punched him out. When I say I don't like being touched, I mean it.

As for the Yarmouth House, I've only had dinner there once--it was good. The Old Yarmouth Inn on Route 6A is very good, the tavern is cool. They have wonderful pizza and a killer Gorgonzola steak salad. Center Stage Cafe by the museum in Dennis is consistently good as well.

One year-round place I can't warm up to is the Scargo Cafe. For me, there is always something a little off. It's got the prices of a fancy restaurant, but the food just doesn't match. Maybe somebody knows of some "can't miss" dish I should be trying...
11/05/07 @ 9:28 pm
CC Rockhopper [Member] writes:
Now this is some blogging I can sink my teeth into and yes I take notes for next year. It was through someones blog that I discovered Jasons Tavern in Patriot Square on 134. Thank you for your tips I enjoy supporting the year rounders as well even if I am only a part timer.
11/06/07 @ 8:52 am
Solon [Member] writes:
Rockhopper,

You are a part-timer in fact, but a full-timer in spirit.

I hope you're gearing up for that wonderful Ohio winter. Two years ago I visited out there during the winter--not only did I freeze my butt off there, but I came back to find over two feet of snow in my driveway. Was out there till 2AM just digging out to get IN.

I lived in Dayton (worked at Wright-Pat AFB). Look forward to seeing you again next summer on the Cape.
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About This Blog

SolonSolon Economou, a frequent Op Ed Page contributor to The Providence Journal and a former Cape Cod Times columnist, is a retired professional engineer and military officer, former physics teacher and training developer. He's been writing professionally for over 20 years. Solon's opinions are strictly my own, so if you don't agree with them, don't blame anybody else.

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