Cheap Eats

Riverway: Simple, inexpensive, Cape Cod food

The Riverway Lobster House stays true to traditions
A menu made for recessionary times

By Walter Brooks

We launched our quest with Boneless Chicken Tenders, Buffalo style, and Fried Oysters.

But the piece d' resistance was a superb Wellfleet Oyster Pan Stew.

The next entree was Baked Stuffed Seafood Sampler.

And it's easy to get to from anywhere on Cape Cod.

We know you fellow Cape Codders only eat out once a week at best, and even less during these tough times, but we bring you glad tidings about where to go when you venture out again - the Riverway Lobster House in South Yarmouth abaft the Bass River Bridge is a bargain hunter's dream-come-true.

I know, you're a Cape Codder, and you don't do whale watches or mini-golf, etc., and you've ignored The Riverway for decades.

Fried oysters about 42¢ each

Well you were dead wrong, and we think these prices will get you out of the kitchen:

• Over two dozen fried oysters as good as any I've ever eaten, $10.99, that's about 42¢ apiece.
• A big pile of boneless chicken tenders, Buffalo style with house blue cheese dressing and garnish, $7.99.
• An enormous bowl of Wellfleet  Oyster Pan Stew served with a black pepper puff pastry and a side of veggies, $16.99, and I couldn't finish it all. This was a nightly special this week, but the whole menu is similarly priced.

Early Bird to Lobster & Crab Pizza

The Early Birds from 4-5:30 daily are served with soup or salad, dessert and coffee, and the entrees start from $10.99.

I used the word "traditions" in the headline because that's what this restaurant maintains.

My Oyster Stew, for instance, was made with milk, not heavy cream as so many nouveau chefs here do in a misguided attempt to please the palate.

What they do instead is mute the subtle favors of oysters and clams.

Riverway Restaurant offers a variety of delicious dishes prepared by Executive Chef Tim McDonough and his team.

Tim owned his own Ostervillee bistro for years, and brings a new flavor to this Cape Cod landmark which was recently purchased by Jason Siscoe who owns Wimpy's Cafe and Fish Market, an equally renowned Osterville eatery.

Jason is a young native Cape Codder who brings added, youthful zest to this longtime favorite of many in the mid-Cape area. For example, here is a sampling of his dinner seafood entrees:

Fih & Chips, $12.99, Fried Scallops, $14.99, Fried Oysters $17.99, Baked Seafood Medley $17.95, Grilled Salmon $15.95, Baked Chatham Scrod $15.99, Fisherman's Platter $19.99, Fresh Grilled Sword Fish $18.99, Native Fried Clams $15.99, Fried Shrimp $15.99, Baked Stuffed Shrimp $17.99.

Or, you can get a Lobster Roll from $14,99, Fish Tacos $9.99 and a Pizza from $14.99.

Notice to Vacationers

We know you're out there somewhere, and our stats on Cape Cod TODAY reveal about a third of our readers come from off-Cape, so we urge you to save money on this Cape Cod vacation by bringing the whole family to The Riverway at 1338 Route 28 in South Yarmouth, (508) 398-2172.