Cape Fine Dining

902 Main Serves Up the Past

902 Main is a very small restaurant on the main drag of Route 28 in West Yarmouth. The dining came highly recommended. It was hard to get a reservation. So we had to see what all the fuss was about.

They truly have done a lot with this former car wash. But it's still a little scary when the staff of a fine dining establishment outdresses the clientel.

Food

Our appetizer was a disappointing way to start.  The warm goat cheese tart, was more like pizza. The goat cheese and greens got lost in the dough and were overpowerd by the carmelized onions.

The chef recovered with the entrees. The pan roasted native cod, served over risotto and vegetables, was expertly prepared. Subtle flavors in the  vinaigrette, lemon and basil, added to the dish.

We also tried the sauteed lobster and shrimp. Taking the meat from a 1 1/4 lb lobster still requires  two jumbo shrimp to round out the plate. It was tasty if not filling. 

We got the sense that they were trying too hard with not one, but two palate cleansing sorbets, one before each course.  A nod to the service of the hotel dining.  As was the china, one for each of the different courses.

Coffee service at the end of the evening was quite elaborate. The coffee was excellent, but the bits of bitter chocolate served in a candy dish was truly an antiquated after-dinner offering.

Wine

 An extensive wine list allows you to choose almost any kind of wine in almost any price category.  We chose a bottle of champagne. Attentive wait staff made sure we didn't have to handle the bottle.

Service

The service was impeccable, although a bit unevenly paced. The professional servers are all male. They were complemented nicely with all female support. The two hosts, one male and one female, doubled as wine steward and bartender. Everyone was dressed in formal uniforms, white shirts and ties for the men, all black, and oh, pearl necklaces, for the women. The hostess was dressed to kill, black lace ankle length dress,  replete with yes, Barbara Bush pearls. 

Atmosphere

Aside from being too small, the room was a bit stuffy.  High back wooden chairs, oriental rugs.  To compensate they placed mirrors and candles everywhere. In the end the lighting was still too soft,  to the point of being dark. It dampened the mood in the room. Even the music was too soft.  I think they were going for romantic. I still would prefer to see my date.

902 reminded us of dining out with grandmother, which incidently was going on at a couple of tables around us.  We couldn't think of a good reason, other than the obvious, to visit the much talked-about restrooms.  That got  me thinking, could the lu really be prettier that the dining room?

902 Main Street has benefited from consistency,  we suspect. Garnering good reviews from guidebooks and patrons alike.  This comes from word of mouth.  For some, it's the food, for others it's the nod to old world service.  We could see what people like about 902.

We give it 2** mostly for the food and service.  And it still takes 3$$$ to dine here.  But we weren't that nostalgic for the fine dining of the last century.

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Hannah's a Fusion of Flavor

Hannah's Fusion Bar and Bistro  is located on the West End of Main Street in Hyannis. Hannah's is a brand new restaurant that follows a string of disasters at that location. Mentioning anyone of them would send any fine diner into apoplexia. We entered with some trepidation.

Executive Chef Binh Phu and his brother, Chef Uy Phu are the creators of Hannah's. Binh is an alumni of the Culinary Institute of America and was executive chef in a few local haunts before opening his first restaurant in Woods Hole in 2002. To paraphrase the Vietnamese-born Binh, "True fusion is American. There are no rules in cooking, just guidelines."

Flavor is the order of the day at Hannah's. Everything we tried had flavor and lots of it. The combinations are indescribable, but always delicious. New flavors, combination of flavors, new and strange ingredients, with a strong Asian influence, combined to make the meal an explosion of flavor.

We started with Pan Seared Scallop and Lobster Cakes with Pesto-Cilantro Aioli, which was excellent as was the Buffalo Mozzarella, Green Peppers, and Tomatoes with field greens Salad. The combination of subtle flavors in the vinaigrette dressing made an ordinary salad, extraordinary.

With the mostly seafood menu, we ordered the Sauted Sea Scallops made with Fresh Pasta of the Day tossed with Mushrooms, Smoked Bacon, Tomatoes, Artichokes, Roasted Garlic Cloves, Madeira Cream Sauce. The combination of flavors was nothing short of spectacular.

The Baked Prawns stuffed with Lobster and Sea Scallops topped with Fine Herb Butter Sauce, over Avocado and Yellow Tomato Salad were prepared with an artist's palette. The presentation of the food on the plate was pure culinary art.  By the way, the prawns were fantastic too.

We didn't have room for dessert, but the hostess gave us a couple of Hannah's poker chips, good for dessert the next time we visit. The dessert menu was a simple, yet exciting selection of favorites.

Wine and Cocktails
We started with a very expensive vodka martini, made well and presented with style. We also ordered a glass of champagne. Glass by the wine was priced inconsistently. A glass of Asti and a glass of champagne were priced the same even though one of their bottles was twice the price of the other. So we moved on to a bottle of reasonably priced chardonnay. The wine list can only be described as eclectic. Nothing is boring in this place, not even the wine list.

Service
We were met by a sweet girl who seated us by a window. We were then greeted by a striking young waitress. Soon we discovered that all of the wait staff were attractive, as were the patrons at the bar, and almost everyone else in the place. It was like stepping into Shangri-la.

The service was efficient if somewhat timid. But who wouldn't be intimidated by the food. The floating floor manager made up for any oversights, stepping in where needed.

Atmosphere
If streetscapes are your thing, get a window seat and watch the world walk by in all its glory. Otherwise, sit behind the half wall and watch the chefs operate in the open kitchen. Either show will keep you entertained for the evening. We dined on the early side so we suspect we missed the show at the bar that was to come later. This is a hip and trendy  younger crowd.

Parking is always challenging on Main Street, but valet parking was available on this night. The interior decor was city bistro.  High ceilings and hard floors keep the noise level at deafening. Enough so that you can have a cell phone conversation and not disturb anyone. But the noise was sounds of people enjoying themselves.                                                                       
The food is the thing here. The food alone rates this diamond in the rough, 3 .  We can't wait to get back to try more of the menu.  Add good service and a sophisticated atmosphere, and you have a winner. The prices were not outrageous, but still rate 3 $$$.

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Tapas on Tap at Gracie's Table

Gracie’s Table is a small restaurant in the village of Dennis along Route 6A snuggled in alongside several art galleries and the Cape Playhouse.  In its newest conversion it is an intriguing combination of a Tapas bar and Basque cuisine.  

Food

Really two menus in one restaurant, we chose to dine on entrees.  We thought we’d return for the tapas. But as we were seated in the bar, we tried to observe the bar patrons selection of tapas and satisfaction with each. We are happy to report that they seemed to enjoy themselves.

We ordered the much recommended Pork Confit, served over red cabbage and covered with sour cherries. We’re not sure why it was recommended, because it neither over-promises (on the menu) nor over-delivers (on the plate).  Too much pork fat was allowed to drain from the pan to the plate for our taste, but it was otherwise tasty.

We decided not to wait for Paella, since the menu warned it would take 25 minutes.   So we played it safe with the Chicken Basquaise. Too safe it turns out. Advertised as Bell & Evans, trade lingo for never frozen, this quartered chicken lacked nationality and salt.

It used to be that restaurants would inform diners that they did not use MSG. Looks like they’re going to have to start advising us they don’t use salt either.  In what appears to be a disturbing trend on Cape Cod, (or a concession to elderly diners), restaurants are not salting their food. What’s worse here is that Gracie’s didn’t even have salt on the table.

Wine and Cocktails

We started with cocktails because of the interesting offering of concoctions. Try the Flirtini. We decided to stay with a cocktail sampling after we tried to read the wine menu. Except for the Sangria by the pitcher, confusing groupings of mostly wines from Spain and California did not inspire a bottle. Although we had eyed a ’00 Rioja, the price did not seem to jive with the label.

In another nod to the older diner, the other side of the desert menu had a nostalgic listing of after dinner drinks. Does anybody else remember the Stinger? We skipped dessert but saw a wonderful plate of fruit with creamy topping float by. We did have coffee served in a French press, which was a highlight of the meal.

Service

Turns out the bartender is pretty adept at mixing drinks and conversation. The other wait staff were pleasant enough but too young and inexperienced to turn a lackluster menu into an excursion to another culture.  We dined on perhaps the busiest night of the week in the busiest week of the summer but the service did seem to flow smoothly.

Atmosphere

Tiny would be the way to describe the reception and bar area. The dining rooms also very small, are not visible form the entry, but the kitchen was, as were the toilets in the restrooms, since the doors don’t have closers. On this evening there was an endless parade of mostly older couples dining together.

The coziness adds little to the overall ambiance of the place. It’s just too small to be attempting a full service menu.  More of the tapas bar downstairs would be appropriate for such a tight space, with Spanish entrees served upstairs for those selected diners.  One menu downstairs, one menu upstairs.  That would also add some excitement to the place.

As a result, the price of the place doesn’t match the overall experience. What we sampled only rates (1) *, although the other bar patrons would rate their tapas with (2) **. But the prices of either menu still require (3)$$$.

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The Artful Table Serves Ambrosia

We've dined at the Artful Table three times this year, and we're torn between recommending this hidden jewel of a restaurant and just keeping it a secret.

It's more than just a restaurant. Located on Route 6A at the Kingsway development in Yarmouthport, it is one of the few truly fine dining experiences on Cape Cod.

The Artful Table has survived a couple of owners since it opened at this location 3 years ago. Then, the founders of the Artful Hand in Truro, opened a trendier version of the original in the clubhouse of the Kingsway Golf Club. This year the Table is run by chef Bob Hickey and his wife, very hands on, and it shows.

Originally envisioned as the dining option of the member community of mostly retired couples, the Table today relies on the general public to dine there too. It has however, not been successful in attracting many outsiders to venture in. Their loss, our gain.

Food
On our most recent visit we tried the seafood again. The salmon was grilled to perfection. Its natural flavor was seared in and cooked through. The diced cucumber accompanying it was a curious choice but went well with the asian rice. All together, this good food is good for you too. Any dietician or cardiologist would approve.

We also tried the baked scallops. A favorite of locals for a hunderd years, they got this dish right with just the right amount of butter and cracker topping to please even the most skeptical scallop lover. The green beans that came with, were fresh and crisp, and the rice again worked well.

The clam chowder with native clams was succulent as an appetizer. On other occassions we sampled the coconut battered fried shrimp, awesome, and chinese potstickers, wicked good.

Also on previous visits we ordered the roasted chicken, baked scrod, sirloin steak, and pasta. All were prepared well, served hot and in good portions.

Dessert this time was a real treat, homemade grapenut custard, and handmade tiramissou. Both were extraordinary, like eating ambrosia with a spoon, in giant helpings.

Wine & Cocktails
The Table has a very interesting selection of "martini" concoctions. But no gin here. The wine list is varied and appealing, making it easy to select a bottle. Many good Californians to choose from. Skip the Europeans. Wine, by the glass is expensive, but by the bottle, fairly priced.

Service
On each occasion we dined without a reservation. The main dining room, set precisely for dinner with white tablecloths, full service of china, silverware and glassware, can be a bit intimidating to the casual diner. Not to worry, this is still Cape Cod.

The white shirted, full length black apron-clad waiters (waitresses) cut an imposing figure, but underneath their austere appearance are the sweetest young servers on the Cape. Their youth is disguised well by their training, and their exhuberance makes up for any inexperience. Their desire to please the diner was truly refreshing. The service was, to say the least, outstanding.

Atmosphere
A combination of bar and restaurant allows one to dine casually in the former, or formally in the latter. But on most evenings the clientel are older foursomes or lately, grandparents, parents and grandkids. Nice to see multigenerational tables in public.

The building is out of architectural digest while the dining room, overlooking the golf course, is esthetically pleasing. Relatively small, it has an intimate feel, especially at sunset. The restaurant is immaculate, as are the surrounding clubhouse grounds.

Once again we ventured out for a fine dining experience on Cape Cod and this newest version of The Artful Table did not disappoint. The food was excellent, the service impecable, the atmosphere delightful, and the location serene. As close as you will get to perfection on Cape Cod.
We give The Artful Table   (3 out of 3) the highest rating, to go with $$$ (3 out of 3) as it was a bit expensive. But you too will get carried away somewhere between the cocktails and dessert.

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Grille 16 Shoots and Scores

We always follow the golden rule of dining and wait until a restaurant is at least a month old before trying it. The success of a restaurant and dining experience depends on three things; the food, the service and the atmosphere. It is very difficult to get all three right at the same time, and sometimes takes years.

Grille 16 is the latest version of the Asa Bearse House on Main Street in Hyannis.

Food
We ordered 2 seafood dishes, yes, at a steakhouse. But a good way to judge a restaurant's strengths is by tasting its weaknesses.

The haddock was to die for. A great piece of fresh fish. The seared scallops, not so much. Pretty typical for this region. The fish came with roasted potatoes and beans, about what you'd expect. The scallops were complemented with finely grilled asparagus and lobster mashed potato. The latter accounted for the higher price of the dish and was unintentionally cold.

Both however, were lacking any distinctive flavors, almost to the point of being bland. Everything on the plate could have used a little bit of salt.

Wine
We ordered a bottle of local sparkling wine, which is always a treat, but more so this time because it was cheaper here. The wine list, although it includes some very pricey selections, is generally underpriced. Especially compared to the overpriced food menu.

Service
On this rainy evening the restaurant seemed over staffed. The hostesses were courteous, young and attractive. The waiters were very attentive and solicitous. They were well versed in the new menu and maintained an even pace of service throughout the evening, checking in with us frequently.

Atmosphere
Each time the interior of this restaurant is redone, it gets a little bit nicer. Although lacking in color or distinctive design, the unusual configuration of the rooms and variations in lighting provide enough distraction for the eye to be pleasing. And of course, there's always people-watching. The clientele was mostly Hyannisport types.

The dinner was accented by a visit to our table by the owner, Derek Sanderson, who was wandering the dining rooms all evening, knowing just when to stop by a table to check on his patrons.

In all, the experience was a good one. Enough to go back and try the steak. We give the Grille 16 *** to go with its $$$ .

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Barnstable Tavern Half Way Home

Reviewing the latest version of the Barnstable Tavern on Route 6A in Barnstable Village, now includes Restaurant in the name, but might also be described an Italian Grill.

On this night we dined with friends, and were able to sample more menu items and get other opinions on the food. The traditional menu of American favorites, like steaks and seafood, now features pasta, which seems to be the specialty of Bob Calderone, the new owner chef. Only thing missing in this extensive menu was pizza, but you can still get a cheeseburger.

Food
Appetizers - 3 of us had appetizers, which were all prepared with gusto. The grilled asparagus wrapped with prosciutto on a bed of greens was excellent. The beet salad with blue cheese and citrus was just the right combination of flavors to make this large portion an offbeat treat. And the Cesar salad was light and garlicy as a first dish should be, but maybe not for a first date. In the end, the appetizers were the highlight of the meal.

Entrees - 3 three of us gravitated to the Italian selections on the menu. One to seafood. The penne with prosciutto and peas in Parmesan cream sauce was delicious. A more modern version of the pasta carbonara. The penne bolognaise, was a hearty and tasty edition of a traditional Italian favorite. Again with portions large enough to share. The sauteed scrod was overpowered by a scallion, tomato and peppers sauce. Served with mashed and beans, it was a passable meal.

Wine & Cocktails
We started with cocktails at the bar as the restaurant was busy on this evening with lots of holdovers from the live entertainment on the outside patio staying for dinner. And with a high demand for glasses, our bartender improvised when she ran out, and served our martinis in margarita glasses, which provided a delightful conversation piece.

At dinner we decided to order wine by the glass, because the wine list, which can only be described as pedestrian, did not inspire a bottle.

Service
A combination of hosts at the door was a bit confusing but functional. Some familiar faces behind the bar put us at ease. And after a very short wait, we were introduced to a booth table and a very pleasant waitress. She was a bit distracted at first, but became very attentive as the evening moved along. She knew the menu and steered us to the chef's strengths. She even gave us a quick recap of his resume. We were not an easy party, but she handled us with style and herself with grace. Kudos.

Atmosphere
The Tavern is an historic structure, and as such does not lend itself to a makeover. The interior is pretty much the same as always, with a few additions to the colonial era-decor like the pastureseque mural near the kitchen. Lots of bustle to go with hustle on this evening, serving large parties, extended families mostly, and locals.

The Tavern, which in its newest incarnation can more aptly be called the Taverna, still has a way to go. We give the overall dining experience ** (out of ***) and rate the price about $$ (out of $$$) depending on how many $9 martinis you order.

It was a fun outing to an old stand-by. But just like in the days of the coach traveling down the Old King's Highway, the new Barnstable Restaurant & Tavern is only a stop on the journey, not the ultimate destination.

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