Travel Tales

Family sailing in the Caribbean

A week in a bareboat in the British Virgin Islands with kids

Second Mate Marina at the helm of our 46-foot Beneteau leaving Prospect Reef, Road Town, Tortola.

Caribbean Yacht Charter BVI surpassed our expectations for a week-long sail

By Walter and Pat Brooks

Jay and Will at the helm.

Prospect Reef Marina is near Road Town shopping.

Will and Marina hang on as we heel 30 degrees.

Pat takes the helm on our first leg to Norman's Island.

Jay races another sailor to Virgin Gorda.

Climbing the rocks at Cooper's Island.

We could have spend the rest of our lives at The Pub at Bitter End Yavcht Club in Virgin Gorda Sound.

Bumping into a neighbor at a Road Town marina.

Marina had to watch out for the goats at Vixon Point.

Our Thanksgiving dinner was at Saba Rock.

Pat and Marina reading their Kindles on the deck.

The Baths on Virgin Gorda are spectacular snorkeling.

The 6'4" headroom in the roomy salon was the scene of many meals by Julie and Pat. Jay ran the Bar-b-q.

Our last sunset in Virgin Gorda Sound.

A really great restaurant, Brisani's, was across the harbor. That's Marina on her Kindle in our boat.

There can be no stronger way to bond with your children than sailing in a bareboat on an unfamiliar sea.

Living on Cape Cod without learning to sail, is like living in Montreal without skating or Malibu without surfing.

We bought our first  sailboat, a 16-foot O'Day Daysailer, the first year we moved to Cape Cod and moved up to a Marshall Catboat which we sailed for thirty years.

But sailing on Pleasant Bay or Nantucket Sound is really "day-sailing", and we yearned to sail a "real" boat in the Caribbean, a dream we realized during our son Jay's senior year at Harwich High School when we took him on a two week bareboat charter in the British Virgin Islands.

The British Virgin Islands are the perfect place to learn to sail a larger boat. The Sir Francis Drake Channel between the main island of Tortola and the half dozen smaller islands a couple miles south form a safe calm sea in the very middle of the Caribbean, see map here.

These islands have a tropical climate, moderated by trade winds, and temperatures vary little throughout the year. In the capital, Road Town, typical daily temperatures are around 89° in the summer and 84° in the winter, but it's always cooler at sea.

Picking your charter

Since we have chartered often in the Caribbean, Maine and Massachusetts, we try to save as much as possible given the cost.

We chose Caribbean Yacht Charters B.V.I. this time, and for good reason; they were the most competitive, and the staff from owner Chandi Singh, captain Julian and mechanic VJ were beyond helpful.

The 46-foot Beneteau we rented costs from $2,800 to $3,500 depending on the season. We needed no instructions, having sailed these waters several times, but if you feel the need, they offer one or two day, refresher courses where the skipper gets off after the agreed upon time, and the bareboat charter continues.

This program is quite flexible in that the guest can ask the skipper to stay longer if needed.

At this charter company the follow through, boat condition and support was impeccable, and a local cellphone was provided if we needed their help while at sea.

Where to sail

Caribbean Yacht Charters BVI is almost in the middle of Road Town where you'll need to buy food for your voyage.

Our son Jay researched the available sources, and we happily decided on Bobby's Supermarket which was the equal of any stateside.

For the basic staples you can walk a block to the local mini mart.

We decided to sail to the half dozen islands a few miles and a two hour sail to the south starting at the west end of the chain to snorkel the caves on Norman's Island.

After a vigorous afternoon, we headed to our first overnight mooring at Cooper's Island to the east dropping our anchor in Hallover Bay in the southwest, leeward shoreline.

Never having visited this  section, we were delighted to find huge rock formations along the beach which were the equal of those at the famous Baths on Virgin Gorda, see the photo above on right.

We found the Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands was still an indispensable tool.

Final destination: Virgin Gorda Sound

But we were anxious to get to our favorite spot in these tropical islands - Virgin Gorda Sound in the easternmost part of this chain.

Our first visit ashore was to the world renown Bitter End Yacht Club which we had first visited in its second year of operation back in 1979. And wow how this place has grown, but still manages to retain its island charm and uniqueness.

A lunch or two here, snorkeling in Estatia Sound east of Prickly Pear Island, a look at Richard Branson's private Necker Island next door, and a superb Thanksgiving feast at Saba Rock Resort next to Bitter End where we had all-you-can-eat turkey, roast beef, Mahi Mahi etc. for $30 a head.

As the sun slowly sank in the west...

Well, it didn't really sink, but our spirits did as we visited The Baths again on our final leg of this week long voyage and sailed to a marina in Road Town to gas up where we got a final surprise.

There, docked alongside us was the Provincetown III ferry boat which we had last seen three months earlier in Boston getting ready for a scheduled trip to Provincetown.

But Provincetown III doesn't rest in winter, she sails to Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas five miles west of Tortola in the United States Virgin Islands and becomes the "Tortolla Fast Ferry."

Dining at Brisani's in our marina

Not the least of the advantages of chartering from Caribbean Charters BVI is its location in downtown Road Town at the Prospect Reef Marina with a really impressive new restaurant, Brisani's.

We ate there the evening before and following our charter.

I had one of the best vegetarian dishes ever the first time and a knockout Pork the second.The Thai Tofu Vegetarian Delight was $18.50, and I couldn't finish the large portion of a medley of island vegetables, topped with breaded tofu infused with Thai curry in coconut sauce.

The Pork Tenderloin at $21 was big enough for me to have it again for my lunch the next day. It was pan seared pork medallions with shallots in a tamarind jus, served with thyme infused polenta and warm red cabbage salad.

Julie and Will had the Roasted Chicken Fettuccine Alfredo with steamed veggies and roasted chicken, $22, and Pat had the Steamed Snapper $24.50. It was Snapper wrapped in banana leaf, served with coconut rice, island sofrito, pineapple and sweet plantain chips garnishes. Jay had the BRI-KA-BOB which were succulent chunks of beef or chicken grilled on stick accompanied by peppers, mushrooms and onions. Beef $12.50, Chicken $10.50.

Others had the Cajun Chicken $19.50, which was tender breast of chicken, pan roasted and rubbed in a southern blend of spices, served with veggie jambalaya and Cajun cream. Marina loved her Macaroni and Cheese at only $8. See the impressive menu here.

The rest of the watery world

If this story intrigues you, perhaps these other recnt voyages may get you at sea:

• The Sunny Isles of the Aegean
• Adrift on the Volga
• The Anchovy of India
• Three weeks on the Aranui from Tahiti to the Marquesas  
• The Eastern Mediterranean as it once was 
• Sailing up The Rhone and The Saone to Lyon and Paul Bocuse  
• A Week in Provence
• Mid-ocean Truros where time stands still

If these don't, this poem by John Masefiled will:

I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking,
And a grey mist on the sea's face and a grey dawn breaking.

I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,
To the gull's way and the whale's way where the wind's like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick's over.

A Beneteau 46 with the first stanza of John Masefield's "I must go down to the Sea again."
The complete short poem is below

Amazing food, more amazing prices, at Sea Crest in Falmouth

New owner remodels, repositions, famous Old Silver beach resort

   Location, location, location, and there cannot be a better one than that of the Sea Crest Resort along the edge of Buzzards Bay on Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth.

The Seacrest has become the "must go to" spot for local Cape Codders too

By Walter and Patricia Brooks

Calamari with pickled peppers and a tarragon aioli

Grilled oysters in brown butter, and Worcestershire.

Slow-cooked lamb shank.

Chatham cod loin, harvest vegetables and lobster.

A typical recent wedding at Sea Crest this September.

The bay is a few feet out the door of this suite.

No one usually associates great dining with vacation hotels, but you will quickly change that perception if you venture to the newly remodeled Sea Crest Resort and Convention Center on Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth on Route 28-A on Buzzards Bay.

And when we say "on", we mean the saltwater is a few feet from your room or suite.

Remembering "Red"

The late "Red" Auerbach either coached, managed or ran the Boston Celtics for 56 years until his death in 2006 and is remembered as a pioneer of modern basketball, redefining basketball as a game dominated by team play and tough defense rather than individual feats and high scoring and introducing the fast break as a potent offensive weapon.

"Red" also was a part-owner of the Seacrest and often brought his team there for R & R.

Now the Seacrest's new owners have named the very hip bistro there for Red.

Scout Capital also owns the Harbor View, and Kelley House in Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket's Westmore Club and the Plantation Golf Resort in Chrystal River Florida.

With all due respect to Red's athletic achievement, future generations may remember him for the bistro named "Red's" in his honor as the Sea Crest Resort on Cape Cod.

And don't let that pub-sounding name fool you, the food ranks with the best we've eaten anywhere, any city, any resort, any country.

20 % off for locals till Memorial Day

Here are just a few samples of "Red's" menu with an * for what Cape Cod, Plymouth County and Bristol County guests will pay because "Red's" is giving area resident's a 20 percent discount off the regular modest prices until next Memorial Day.

• Crispy Point Judith Calamari with Pickled Peppers and a Tarragon Mustard Aioli $11 (for you $8.80*).
• Grilled Oysters in Brown butter, Worcestershire and Paprika, $14 (for you $11.20*).
• Northeast Venison Chili, Goats Milk Cheddar with Boston Brown Bread, $13 (for you $10.40*).
• Chatham Cod Loin, Cracker Crusted, Harvest Vegetables and Lobster, $21 (for you $16.80).
• Slow Cooked Lamb Shank, Eastham Turnips, Sugar Pumpkin, Baby Potato, Natural Jus, $27 (for you $21.60*).
• Georges Hank Haddock "Fish 'n Chips", Autumn Vegetable Slaw, Red's Tartar Sauce, Malt Vinegar, $16. (for you, $12.80*).

See the rest of "Red's" remarkable and highly creative menu here.

And the rooms and suites are pure Florida Keys charm and luxury

On the heels of a $15 million renovation, Sea Crest Beach Hotel is now undergoing its third and final phase of new and renovated facilities which will add a spa and leisure amenities and upgrade the fitness center and indoor swimming pool area at the  heart of this transformed family beach hotel. In addition, major  improvements at the hotel’s Nauset Conference Center will make  the property’s meeting and event space the finest in the area, completing the renewal of the legendary Upper Cape hotel whose history began in 1927 when it opened as a summer playhouse on the sands of Old Silver Beach.

263 guest rooms and suites, some with fireplaces and many with water view private balconies, the hotel is equally ideal for families who seek a beachfront setting in which to create timeless memories, couples drawn by the romance of the Cape, and meeting or wedding planners seeking expansive function space combined with superb dining and warm, personalized service.

For reservations or more information, visit http://www.seacrestbeachhotel.com or call 1-800-225-3110. Find Sea Crest Beach Hotel on Facebook at www.facebook.com/seacrestbeachhotel

How about The Vineyard this Fall?

Kelley House opens year-round, offers best rooms for $80-$89

The same room will cost $375 a night next summer

   The Kelley House opened for business in 1742, 100 years after the first Europeans settled on Martha's Vineyard, and today is considered one of the island's premier lodgings.

The Kelley House pub is called Newes from America.

The Kelley House is on Kelley Street, of course.

The Cockles and Mussel and the Clams in a spicy broth were great and only $14 at Henry's Pub as were the...

the Lobster Roll, $18 and Sirloin Steak Tips, $16.

An Edgartown doorway across from the Kelley House.

You can't imagine a better bargain than $89 for a $375 room which is almost a suite and overlooks Edgartown Harbor on Martha's Vineyard, and you can even bring your four-legged pet with you to the this gorgeous inn overlooking the harbor.

The Kelley House is actually a B&B in the off season, and has a platter of gourmet muffins and coffee in the fireplaced lobby early each morning, and if you want a full breakfast you can stroll a few steps to their sister property, the Harbor View Hotel.

The breakfast here is wonderful in a large, airy dining room looking out on the harbors entrance and the Edgartown Lighthouse, scene of countless marriages.

Off season rates in The Kelley House main building are all only $80-$89 dollars per night, and four of the rooms have a beautiful water view for that low rate .

Each room has refrigerators, free wifi  and the best Egyptian cotton linens on a very comfortable bed. For a little more there are beautiful suites with 2 or 3 bedrooms and a mini kitchenette.

Peaceful and all to yourself

Shops in Edgartown are still open, but the summer crowds are gone, so we prefer The Vineyard at this time of year, and the sister property, the Harbor View, is offering a spectacular Thanksgiving buffet for only $48, and the seatings are selling out fast, so make your reservation now for next week's trip to Martha's Vineyard.

The Kelley House Inn opened for business in 1742, 100 years after the first Europeans settled on Martha's Vineyard. Originally a tavern, it prospered through the Revolutionary War and the whaling era that followed. A registered Historic Inn of America, the Kelley House Inn decor features maritime artifacts and artwork mingled with brick fireplaces, rich woodwork and sumptuous suites, some with water view balconies overlooking Martha's Vineyards premier sailing and yachting location, Edgartown Harbor.

The menu at the Newes from America pub at the Kelley House is a blend of American and British pub food and features local favorites such as Chip Shop Curry Fries, Bangers & Mash, Roquefort Stilettos and world-famous Fish & Chips. It also prides itself on offering some of the most highly rated, limited-release, New England draft beers, and a Rack of Beers is available for sampling. Heres the Newes From America Menu.

Guests at the Inn may also enjoy the resort amenities offered at the nearby Harbor View Hotel & Resort including the award winning Water St. restaurant.

The Kelley House owners are Scout Capital which also owns the nearby Harbor View, Nantucket's Westmore Club, the Plantation Golf Resort in Chrystal River Florida and the just remodeled Seacrest Resort in Old Silver Beach, Falmouth.

Click here for the Newes From America restaurant menu on the property
Click here for the Harbor view Hotel sister hotel
Click here for Henry's Pub another great restaurant at their sister hotel.
Click here for the 30th anniversary of Christmas in Edgartown and other off season events such as the January chili festival, the March independent film festival etc.

   The upper deck offers spectacular views of Edgartown Harbor.

The Kelley House

23 Kelley St. P.O. Box 37, Martha’s Vineyard, Edgartown MA 02539 Hotel telephone: 508.627.7900

Athens anytime and often

Greek hospitality adds flavor to an already magic land

The changing of the Royal Guards at the Greek Parliament is a must stop for most visitors.  We had a superb guide who made sure we got close enough for these photos.

Where you stay is the Greek Secret to a well-spent Athens Holiday

By Walter Brooks, photos by Patricia Brooks

The Acropolis looms over all, and we could see it from our hotel a block away.

Each night we strolled through the Plaka to a bistro.

The shoes tell the story: Pat is wearing Keens and the Royal Guard always wears tsaroukhias.
The To Palio Tetradio ia one of two bistros owned by the Kazakos family in the Plaka under the Acropolis.

Around the corner from our hotel we discovered Smile Restaurant with very reasonable prices for delicious homemade Greek food. That's Zoe on left with her mom Connie, her brother and dad.

At the other restaurant owned by Dimitris Kazakos and his family, O Geros Tou Moria, the appie combo alone which could have been our whole meal.

A block from our hotel we came upon the first of many street entertainers.

One of our city tours made a stop at this Athen harbor.

We just returned from a couple weeks in Europe and were shocked when we turned on the news back home and saw the steady drumbeat of news about the Greek and European financial situation.

For the two weeks we spent aboard, first on a yacht sailing to seven Aegean Islands and then at the Parthenon Hotel in the heart of the Plaka in Athens, we seldom saw a mention on the local news channels.

Apparently Europeans are not only more sophisticated than Americans, they are also not the prisoners of a news media gone whacky for bad news, real or imaginary.

Athens was delightful, and one of the friendliest places we have ever visited after over a hundred other countries.

Athens today

Athens has survived the Saracens, the Turks, the Mongols and the Nazis, and today's situation is literally a 'walk in the park" for them.

In fact, all the phoney scare stories in the U.S. media give a visit right now a special advantage.

This city is extremely popular worldwide, we choose it thirty years ago for our first European trip, and every restaurant is overly eager to please you, museums are spectacular, and the shops have great bargains.

Where to stay

We made it a point to find a good hotel within easy walking distance of everything important.

We chose one of the well regarded Airotels called the Parthenon Hotel a block from the Acropolis. From here the city unravels a history of 5,000 years, a civilization of fifty centuries, unbelievably magical, day and night.

The hotel staff was extremely helpful, and the complimentary breakfast each morning was really more like a banquet.

The rooms are large, excellent wi-fi and other amenities, and many have views of the city.

Walk out the hotel front door and you can follow the Dionysiou Aeropagitou, a street permanently full of art works, performances and events, and you are in the historic center, where the heart of the city beats, where history meets the contemporary.

How to tour Athens

My wife also researched thoroughly to find the right tour company to most efficiently see this remarkable city.

She chose Odysseas Zournatsidis of  Greece Athens Tour. whose experience and local knowledge made the very most of our time here.

One of his many tours brought us to the Parliament to see the changing of the Royal Guards as they march back and forth in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in the traditional uniform of the Evzones. These uniforms have a long and storied history which begins with the warriors (euzones) at the time of Homer and culminates in the "phoustanella" and "tsaroukhi" at the time of the Turkish Occupation. From 1821 onwards the Evzone uniform was established as the official Greek national costume.

The most distinguishing feature (beside the skirt about which we we abstain from joking) is the shoes called tsaroukhia which are hand-made from hard red leather, each sole having 60 nails and a pair weighs 7 lbs. The toe of the shoe turns up in a point which is covered by a black pompom.

Like the equally famous Beefeaters in front of Buckingham Palace, the guards will not react to anything visitors may do, although many try and fail.

On our second day Odysseas Zournatsidis took us on a tour of the Athens harbors and shoreline, and the final day he took us 100 miles south in the wine country on the Peloponnese including a stop at the Corinth Canal, the world's first, which made the world's biggest man-made island out of this huge 8,320 square mile peninsula. Cape Cod with 413 square miles is the world's second-biggest man-made island.

He'll also pick you up and drop you off at the airport.

Where to dine in the Plaka

We discovered a great family-owned restaurant called Smile a block from our hotel. There was never a more appropriately named eatery. Daughter Zoe and her beautiful mother Connie, will welcome you as never before. Just take a peak at the traditional Greek dishes on their menu.

We also discovered two elegant restaurants a short walk in the opposite direction, both owned by the Kazakos family. The traditional tavern "Geros Tou Moria" is located under the Acropolis in the beautiful Plaka and managed by the restaurant owner's son Demetrius Kazakos.

How safe is Greece?

Athens is among  the safest cities in the world, and no people are friendlier than the Greeks.

In ten days traveling to seven Aegean Islands and three days in the city, we have not been inconvenienced once due to the strikes or protests.

But perception is reality for most folks, and they may miss the most cultural and classic city on Earth.

One day we watched some protestors marching past the Acropolis heading towards the Temple of Zeus on their way to the Parliament where they squatted for the evening.

But not to worry - everyone is more interested in having their photos take. And they love Americas, certainly more than any other country we have ever visited, and everyone you meet asks "Do you know my coupon Demetrius in Chicago?"

LINKS:

• Harmony V   Alpha Yachting.
• Parthenon Hotel.
• Greece Athens Tours.
• Smile Cafe Restaurant.
• O Geros Tou MoriaRestaurant.
• Sailing in  the Aegean to seven islands.
  

Beautiful, breathtaking, classical Greece

Thera (Santorini) is probably the most-photographed island in the world but only one of the eight we visited this month in the Aegean Sea. Pat Brooks photos.

There couldn't be a better time to visit the birthplace of democracy

By Walter Brooks, photographs by Patricia Brooks

Mykonos was our first port of call

Mykonos from the island's high point with Delos above.

The sacred island of Delos was an hour west.

The yacht HarmonyV in Syros harbor.

You can't take a bad photo on Santorini.

And Patricia took the hard way back down to the yacht.

See the donkey ride video of the ascent up the volcano.

An ancient Greek sailor ties us up in Hydra.

And the local cats await lunch in the harbor.

A side street on Hydra.

The Harmony V leaves beautiful Hydra harbor.

Docking at the island of Aegina the next evening.

An outdoor dinner in an Aegina fish market with Noes de Vries and wife and Anatoly Admishin and wife.

The headlines warned of travel problems if we visited Greece this month, and local Greek friends here urged us to avoid Athens because it was not interesting.

Both were wrong.

We just returned from two weeks traveling throughout Greece and the islands of the Aegean, and  we encountered not a single problem.

In fact, if it's possible for a people to be too hospitable, the Greeks win hands down, and Athens is clearly the most beautiful, classical city on earth.

My Hellenic guru, Spyro Mitrokostas, tells me that the reasons local Greeks told me the above is because Greek-Americans never stay in Athens, but at some relative's home in a suburb or some little village in the boondocks where the attention is great, but they don't really 'visit' the city where you can't walk two blocks without coming upon a 3,000 year old ruin being restored.

When Pat and I lived in New York City I never visited the Empire State Building or took a Circle Line tour around Manhattan either, but did all those things when we visited with our grand kids two years ago.

Greece is where Western Civilization became civilized, where democracy was born.

But that's another story for next week.

Our host, Manos Komninos, who runs Alpha yachting, had a driver meet us at the Athens airport in his new Mercedes.

Manos then took us to lunch at an excellent Athens marina, showed us several other vistas along the shoreline, and delivered us to his 178 foot mega yacht Harmony V for our week at sea.

Alpha Yachting & Harmony V

This travel tale is about the week we spent on his mega yacht Harmony V which sailed from the Kea Marina in Athens to eight magnificent Aegean islands.

The once-private yacht was rebuilt for about forty passengers in twenty luxurious staterooms.

A traveler aboard couldn't help feeling a little like Jackie O's second hubby Aristole Onasis aboard his yacht Christina.

The difference was that our food, prepared by hotel manager Spyros, was probably much better, and our cruise director Amalia more knowledgeable and helpful.

Her shills were put to a test a few days later when a Sirocco wind forced a sudden change of plans.

You never find out much about a company when everything is running perfect.

If  managers suddenly have to move quickly to a 'plan B', you only then discover how good and professional they really are.

Amalie, Spyros and Captain Samuel passed that test with flying colors, and they managed to turn a maritime lemon into Aegean lemonade

Mykonos, Delos, Syros, Paros, Thera, Hydra, Poros and Aegina.

Leaving at 4pm the Harmony V arrived at Mykonos before dawn the next day. Visitors rave about the harbor here with its friendly pelicans and local fishermen unloading their catch.

We first came here in 1980 on our first trip abroad, and unlike so much of the traveler's world, it hasn't changed.

Mykonos is part of the Cyclades and lies between Tinos, Syros, Paros and Naxos. The island is only 33 square miles in area, and it rises to an elevation of a little over 1,000 feet.

The islanders have fought off Saracens, Turks, Romans and pirates, and these cagey islands laid out their streets in a maze leading up from the harbor so malevolently the attackers got lost and were fought off more easily.

Today Mykonos, along with Santorini, are the most popular of all Aegean destinations.

The sacred island of Delos is only a mile to the west, and the Harmony V offered a tour there as well.

When we visited in October 1980, we simply walked away from the harbor until a Greek woman approached us asking "room, room", and we paid $8 for the whole top floor of her house.

The same ship that took us to Delos back then was the one we used this time, but in 1980 the captain got so drunk that Patricia had to take the helm on the return voyage.

The rains came

If you can't handle a little wind and rain, you probably should not travel at all, and the Aegean if famous for both.

If the winds come from the south and the Mediterranean they are called Siroccos, and a wise captain finds a safe north-facing harbor for his passengers.

Captain Samuel of the Harmony V found ours at Syros which was an unexpected extra stop.

The next day we headed again for Santorini (Thera), but more winds forced another delightful detour to the island of Paros where we had probably the best 8-course, oceanfront lunch of our lives.

Paros is still unspoiled by too much visitor success, and it reminded us of Santorini thirty years ago.

Santorini at last

Be careful what you wish for. The passengers were all itching to get to Santorini because of it's enormous fame, but much has changed, as happens to every very popular destination.

In our last visit we were stranded on Thera for three days, but this time the weather was marvelous. The crowds, however, were still heavy even in  mid-October with six cruise ships unloading passengers in the crater of this dominant volcano misnamed Santorini.

The island's real name is Thera, but Venetian conquerors centuries ago couldn't pronounce the 'th' sound, and called the island after it's patron Saint Irini, which was slurred into San Irini and finally Santorini which is in wide use today.

Santorini looms a thousand feet above the arriving traveler, and you can wait in line for the funicular (see the video here) or ride a donkey to the town on this volcano's rim as this video shows.

On to Hydra, Poros & Aegina

Because of the weather earlier, the captain treated us all to a trifecta of islands on the last day at sea.

While we all slept in the Harmony V's roomy and comfortable cabins, the yacht sped through the night to visit Hydra, Poros and Aegina.

Hydra was as lovely as any islands we'd ever seen, and had dozens of friendly cats roaming the harbor.

Poros was a modest stop, but as always, Patricia spiced it up by renting a quadruped so we could zoom around the whole island in the three hour visit, but the best was last.

Aegina is a gorgeous harbor, and one of our fellow passengers, Noe de Vries of Urogyn, and Ambassador Anatoly Adamishin of the Association or Euro-Atlantic Cooperation, asked us to join them for dinner in a tiny restaurant nestled in an alley between the local fish markets.

Anatoly was a a charmer and a survivor, the last deputy Foreign Minister of the USSR, who who told marvelous Russian jokes.

It was an amusing and great end to a marvelous trip.

You get what you pay for

My sainted mother admonished me, "Son you get what you pay for." She meant what Edmund Burke was talking about when he said, "Mere parsimony is not economy. Expense, and great expense, may be an essential part in true economy."

Anatoly Joke. A Russian marries.
His first wife dies from eating mushrooms. He marries a second wife.
She dies from eating mushrooms.
He marries a third wife but has to kill her, Why?
She won't eat mushrooms.

This is especially true these days when the US dollar suffers a bit in its exchange rate with the Euro.

Today a dollar is worth .79 of a Euro. To put it another way, it take $1.40 to buy one Euro.

So, is a trip to Greece expensive? Is gold worth more than dross?

Greece is golden, so don't let your life end without taking one of the Alpha Yachting cruises or charter boats on the Aegean Sea.

   The Harmony V awaits its guests return after a visit on Paros.

A very special New England place

Bethel Inn is one of America's Ten Best resorts

The Bethel Inn is nestled in 200 acres in the historic district of this picture-postcard village. See the aerial of this spectacular property at the bottom.

Golf, skiing, canoeing, even gem mining is this quintessential village

By Walter & Patricia Brooks

Bethel is a quintessential New England village.

Pro Mark Mallory spent the morning with our family.

See Mark demonstrate the perfect sidehill tip

The nearby Outdoor Adventure offers a mineral dig.

Our grandkids managed to play Tarzan on the Sunday River zip line with Marina upside-down on the right.

 After that a humongous Calzone was in order at Pat's.

After Bethel we headed for White River rafting at Northern Outdoors on the Kennebec River.

America's Greatest Resort Magazine called this beautiful, 200 acre property "Among the Top Ten Resorts in the Northeast."

Not only is Bethel, Maine one of the most picturesque and peaceful villages to visit in Maine's Western Lakes and Mountains Region, but it is also often referred to as "Maine's most beautiful mountain village."

And appropriately so, because, as and Travel Leisure magazine writes, the Bethel Inn is in an "eponymous historic village six miles from the slopes" adding that the inn has traditional rooms in the main building as well as one- to three-bedroom town houses at its extensive cross-country skiing center.

A superb PGA golf school

Bethel Inn Resort has offered PGA instruction at its Guaranteed Performance School of Golf for nearly twenty years.

Originally established in 1994, the school has graduated over 6,000 participants ranging in ability from novices to accomplished low handicappers.

The school guarantees an improved game or golfers may return to repeat the instructional program at no cost, and the training includes personalized PGA instruction, half of which is on-course with a 3:1, industry leading, student to teacher ratio.

Participants even receive a digital video swing analysis and personalized teaching manual when they finish.

The three day, two night GP School package includes free golf with cart on the day of arrival, unlimited use of driving practice facility, welcoming cocktail reception, three daily meals starting with dinner on the day of arrival and ending with lunch on the day of departure, unlimited use of resort facilities, resort accommodations and all taxes and resort gratuities. Package rates begin at $499 per person.

For another $500 you can even arrange for your whole family to spend the morning with the golf pro, and if that doesn't turn your kids into golfers, nothing will.

Dining at the inn

The Bethel Inn is known for its award winning fine dining in the Main Dining Room and Veranda where an absolutely amazing breakfast is included in the room rates which are exceptional buys in the Fall.

My grand daughter made fresh, wild Maine blueberry waffles for us atop which she piled fluffy pancakes - a new culinary creation by an eleven-year old.

We also discovered the Millbrook Tavern and Grille, downstairs at the Inn, offers a hearty menu. It's a perfect place for lunch or dinner and cocktails with live weekend entertainment, a game room, pool table and 8 big screen TVs.

A look at the Tavern menu will quickly start your taste buds agitating while your wallet relaxes at the modest prices.

Bethel fun & games

Although the inn alone is enough of an attraction, the nearby Sunday River ski area beckened us for dinner and a ride down their excellent zipline.

The Zipline Tour features a series of six lines ranging from 100 to 300 feet in length to take you flying through the woods and over a ravine and stream bed at speeds of up to 25 miles per hour, followed by 750-foot Twin Zips.

The wooded course, accessed via the South Ridge Express, is hidden between South Ridge and Spruce Peak. For a final run, you'll walk over to the Twin Zips to finish your tour right over the Sundance Trail just outside the South Ridge Lodge. It's an all-thrills, no-skills activity for all ages! (Twin Zips are also available without taking the full tour.)

And if you can believe it, we discovered a local mineral mining site at Bethel Outdoor Adventures where kids can pan for gold and at least find some quartz.

The same facility also offers canoe and kayak rentals, so Pat and the kids leisurly paddled down the river until Marina capsized and luckily Willl's hightop Keds served as a bailer for the kayak.

Luckily I had just bought a waterproof camera which recorded their feat.

Almost next door was Pat's Pizza (no relation) where the Calzones were humungous and delicious as was the homemade lasagna.

LOCAL LINKS:

Bethel Inn
Mill Brook Tavern (dinner)

Bethel inn Mountain Golf
Golf pro Mark Mallory

Pat's Pizza
 
Bethel Outdoor Adventure
Mining for gems, Kayaking and canoeing

Grand Summit Hotel Bethel Maine
2 great restaurants at Sunday River:
Legends  Restaurant
Sliders Restaurant

Zip Line Tours at Sunday River Maine

Northern Outdoors White water rafting on the Kennebec River
Rte 201, The Forks, Maine
Cozy cabin Lodging
Kennebec River Pub and Micro Brewery

This 200 acre gem as seen from above

The best views in Boston

Discovering Boston's Harborwalk

The suites on the top floors have easily the best views in Boston. From ours we look out on the harbor with Logan Airport and Winthrop beyond.

At the Seaport Hotel for a water taxi and an eclectic meal or two

By Walter & Patricia Brooks

A spectacular entrance.

A beautiful suite with a harbor view.

We watched the MMA Training Ship Kennedy sail up harbor toward Tobin Bridge from our living room.

Across Seaport Avenue is the World Trade Center.

The Seaport Water Taxi in front of the hotel.

The Urban Renewal Band plays in the lobby Thursdays.

Readers of our newspapers know that we love to break away from the Cape several times a year to visit the most cosmopolitan seaport in America only fifty miles over the Sagamore Bridge.

We usually stay in a downtown Boston hotel, but we just discovered a new and different way to enjoy Boston.

It's embarrassing to admit that after literally dozens of visits to 'The Hub of the Universe', as Boston modestly refers to itself, we never stumbled upon the harbor walk which starts at the World Trade Center in front of the Seaport hotel.

This luxurious property is located on the Boston waterfront in the bustling Seaport District in South Boston, a short walk from the Financial District, Freedom Trail, Faneuil Hall and the North End.

This is a fresh and new way to experience this historic seaport with dazzling city and harbor views, and it's incredibly convenient access to all major points of interest including the World Trade Center in front of the Seaport hotel.

The Harborwalk and Water Taxis

The fascinating Harborwalk starts across Seaport Avenue from our hotel and winds its away along the busy harbor for miles.

Unlike any other Boston hotel we've stayed in, the Seaport offers complimentary bicycles for guests, and I used one each day to discover this district in a new light.

One morning I headed south past the busy fishing docks, and I found a small city park looking out at the harbor just as the T.S. Kennedy came in from Bourne with the after-deck lined with cadets awed as I was at the scene.

The next day I biked for miles along the harbor crossing a pedestrian bridge to the city proper.

See Boston from the sea

The next day the hotel packed an enormous lunch in a roller suitcase for us, and we walked across the street, and hopped on the Seaport Water Taxi alongside the World Trade Center dock.

The electric motored craft toured the harbor and we jumped off at the aquarium and picnicked at the Christopher Columbus Park nearby.

Amenities include music

The Seaport boasts of their excellent gym, but since I prefer perspiring outdoors, I saved my energy for the remarkable free entertainment the hotel offers every a couple evenings a week.

As a jazz aficionado going back to the Blue Note, Birdland, Village Vanguard and the Village Gate across from our coffeehouse on Bleeker Street in Greenwich Village back in the day, it takes a lot to stop me in my tracks as the Urban Renewal Band did last Thursday night at the Seaport Hotel.

On to the food

But man does not live by fun and games alone, a deeper hunger was also satisfied at the Seaport Hotel after a visit to its two dining rooms. the Aura and Tamo. And now Aura unveils new Chef's Selection dinner menu, 3 courses, $30.

Here's what we enjoyed at Aura.

Our dinner at Aura from the top left included a Duck and Cheese Tart, Crispy Artichokes in a coriander‐lemon dressing, shaved Parmesan, roasted garlic and baby lettuce. This was followed by (from left on the bottom) Brandt Farm Steak and Eggs which was Brandt filet mignon, potato puree, crispy poached truffle egg, asparagus, Bordelaise sauce and Georges banl Scallops with Potato‐chive Agnolotti, brie de meaux, passion fruit, shaved baby fennel & radish, garden petals. Aura unveils new Chef's Selection dinner menu, 3 courses, $30.

Getting trained for a Carribean bareboat sail

Linekin Bay Resort can train you to sail like a veteran

Looking out from our table after a day of sailing,the beauty of this special place lingers as a late sailor comes up to his mooring while guests at the saltwater pool watch in the low light of a Linekin Bay sunset.

Text by Patricia Brooks, photos by Walter Brooks.

In summer there is a lobster bake out in the front lawn overlooking the bay.

At the talent show on Friday by some of the 'older' children joined Marina, Elizabeth and Catie Mae.

The weather along the spectacular rocky coast of Maine can claim any dinghy not tied too tightly, unless Ross Branch spots it and goes to the rescue.

After several summers training here, granddaughter Marina scampers to the bow of her Rhodes 19 as Bob Huebner steadies the helm.

Her brother Will and Bob's wife Lanese pretend to fall off the sailboat for the photographer.

If you can tear yourself away, there is mackerel fishing aboard Miss Boothbay, although my granddaughter doesn't look too pleased with her catch.

I just returned back to Cape Cod after spending our 8th year with our 2 grand kids (now 13 & 10) for a week at what may be the only resort of its kind in New England, the Linekin Bay Resort in East Boothbay Maine.

What a shock to leave this peaceful place and head back to the real world. We lose all track of time and very seldom leave this beautiful property.

There are at least four other families with whom we have formed close relationships over the years here and we all arrive on the same week each year from across the country.

We are always asked the question by newbies at Linekin Bay, "you live on Cape Cod, and you come to Maine?"

It's because Linekin Bay is the way Cape Cod was decades ago. It's peaceful, quiet and beautiful beyond description.

Preparing for the Caribbean

We love to sail and will be chartering a bare boat in the Caribbean this winter with the grand kids, and Linekin Bay Resort is the last all inclusive sailing resort on the east coast of the United States.

Even though the grand kids sail smaller craft on the Cape, they always learn something new on the camp's Rhodes 19s from the great sailing instructors, and there are no extra costs for lessons or the use of the kayaks, tennis courts and much else.

Certainly among our strongest reasons for making an annual return a 'must' are the three excellent meals each day at the main lodge and the lobster bake outdoors.

Things to do in Boothbay

There is a heated salt water pool overlooking the bay on days the Atlantic seems a bit cool, and movies every night, tennis courts, and a staff that is extremely pleasant and helpful.

On Thursdays there is a sailing regatta to hone the skills we've learned this visit, and the children (plus a few adults) put on a classic talent show in the West Lodge after dinner on Fridays during July and August.

If you can tear your way from this great resort, there is a good public aquarium, band concerts on Thursdays, a golf course, train ride and even candle-pin bowling in Boothbay two miles away.

Each visit finds the same great bartender, Dan Baker and jack-of-all-trades Ross Branch recovering dinghies adrift and whatever else needs attending. Ross is the son of one of the owners whose family has owned and operated the resort for over a century.

We noticed the many upgraded changes in the cottages. I told the new manager Mark Osborn not to get too upscale because we all appreciate the New England rustic charm at Linekin Bay.

We are already looking forward to next summer and meeting up with our friends again.

What about after summer?

Linekin Bay Resort is open from late May through mid October, and from mid June to the end of August it operates as an all-inclusive resort, providing guests with accommodations, three locally-inspired meals a day, daily housekeeping, sailing instruction, kids camp and full use of the resort's many amenities.

The Summer Season will run from June 16 until August 25 in 2012, and the rates are all-inclusive. No cooking, no cleaning, just fun and relaxation... The way vacation should be.

Indian Summer sees the resort become a Bed & Breakfast at greatly reduced rates. The B&B package includes accommodations, full breakfast and full use of the resort's amenities.

Spring and Fall Bed & Breakfast Specials are only $129 for two people. Call now to visit this very special last-of-its-kind treasure.

Call toll free (866) 847-2103.

Below, our last evening the final guest leaves the Main Lodge, the inset is from the resort's website.

"To Eat is Human - To Digest Divine"

Down East Dining, a Lobster Fest and a World War II Dogfight

The fare at King Eider's Pub is as far from your usual pub fare as a Ritz Carlton is from a Motel 6. Above on the left are the spectacular Seafood Pie and the broiled scallops. On the right is the Guinness Creme Brulee and the Blueberry Crumble.

A quick trip to Mid Coast Maine where the pace is slower and the prices lower

The Owl's Head Transportation Museum put on a dogfight between a Japanese Zero & a USN Corsair.

And Rockland's Annual Lobster Festival was a blast.
Amalfi's Tapas Trio was a great start for a great meal.

And the spicy Spring Rolls blew Pat away.

My Amalfi Pan Roasted Halibut on Ratatouille.

Amali's Seafood Stew has everything but the view.

Jim had a great steak frites at Amalfi.

Two voluptuous Amalfi desserts - Merengue and Brulee.

The scene from our table at Amalfi, and yes, that a US Navy warship in the distance.

It's the way Maine Italians spell "Chow-da"

By Walter & Patricia Brooks

The impossible has happened. We just had oysters every bit as delicious as our wonderful Wellfleet bivalves, but we'll get to that in a minute. First we must set the stage..

This is the time of year we sneak off for a couple of days to what used to be the northern part of Massachusetts until some misguided Bay State pols agreed to let it separate into what is today's State of Maine as part of the Missouri Compromise of 1848.

We've always thought those1 8th Century Massachusetts legislators should have kept the northern part and let Mainers have what is today's Massachusetts.

This trip we sampled the fare at two very different but equally integrating restaurants, King Eider's Pub in Damariscotta and Amalfi on the water in Rockland.

The word pub doesn't do it justice

We have driven past King Eider's Pub dozens of times in our trip to Maine, usually heading for Moody's Diner for breakfast, but that's another story.

We always passed it by because of our mistaken belief about what a pub was, at least in King Eider's case.

We assumed it meant fish 'n chips, hamburgers and pizza, but we discovered instead a first class dining experience fed by Jed and Sarah and Todd and Cynthia.

First, about those oysters

Our server Tina at King Eider's recommended the Damariscotta River oysters which she said were 'selects', the largest size available, and the only one they serve.

Despite our parochial prejudice, we acquiesced and got a shock.

They were as good as Wellfleets and a lot bigger.

It was only the week before at another off Cape restaurant that we were served oysters this big, but they had about half the flavor of Wellfleets whereas these were just as good - is it possible - a tad better?

The Portland newspaper reports that King Eider is the one place to get both Ale and Oysters, so I went for their Steak & Ale Pie, chunks of tender beef simmered with ale and pearl onions, topped with a flaky crust, $17.95.

Pat had the Seafood Pot Pie (seedabove) of fresh Haddock, Maine Salmon and Scallops paired with a velvety cream sauce, topped with a flaky crust. Served with a house salad, $22.95

Our companions had the Broiled Scollops Florentine, scallops topped with butter and crumbs, broiled and served on a bed of steamed spinach, $20.95. and the seafood pie.

The dishes were all equal in their excellence. Pat said the Seafood Pot Pie was the best she'd ever had, and the flaky crust on the all pies were marvelous.

Sane people would have stopped a this point, but no one ever accused us of sanity, so we listened wisely again to Tina abetted and echoed by fellow server Phoebe and went for the Guiness Creme Brulee and the Blueberry Crumble which did terrible things to our waistlines while intoxicating our palates.

See the menus here.

On to Rockland and Amalfi where the only thing they overlook is the harbor

The next day was the annual Lobster Festival in nearby Rockland. We managed to spend over twelve hours in this vibrant seaport, watched the two hour parade and a terrific air show at the Owl's Head Air Museum a mile out of town where we watched one of the three Japanese Zeros still air-worthy in a dogfight with a U.S. Navy gull-winged Corsair.

Our dinner was at Amalfi which is harbor-side on the town's lively harbor walkway.

Owners Nancy Wood and partner-chef David Cook took over the former MBNA credit card call center headquarters building in the middle of the harbor-side park four years ago and have turned these handsome corporate rooms into a classic big city restaurant.

Our server Tracy persuaded us to try the Pemaquid Bay oysters, which matched those of the prior evening. They equaled the Damariscottas from the night before. Then we tackled Amalfi's multi-cultural menu.

Big city dining at Maine Diner prices

We get so used to the ever higher prices in the finer restaurants in the Northeast corridor we forget there is another America out there where the pace is slower and the prices are lower.
Mid Coast Maine is such a place.

I started with the chef's nightly selection in the Tapas Trio, Mediterranean inspired hors d'oeuvres, $8.50, Pat had the Fire Cracker Veggie Egg Rolls with peanut and Ponzu Sauces, $4.25, and we shared a B.L.&T. Salad with Blue cheese dressing, and all were superb.

Our entrees were the night's fish special, Pan Roasted Halibut, with Ratatouille and a saffron infused Seafood Stew. Both were both unusually created and delicious.

Our companions had the Haddock and Crab Citron, a baked Haddock filet with crab meat and lemon buerre blanc sause, $21. and a NY Strip Steak Frites with roasted garlic confit and a rosemary, Cabernet sauce, $24.

If we've whet your apppetite for Mid Coast Maine, check out these other great places: A culinary cruise and Lobsters & Blueberries and Thanksgiving in Maine.

Again, we went nuts over the dessert menu ordering a Meringue with cream and fruit and another Creme Brulee.

The Amalfi is situated a few feet from the bustling Rockport Harbor with it's  three and four-masted schooners and fishing boats moored in front of us.

You could say that the only thing Amalfi overlooks is the Atlantic.

New boutique hotel in Newport will amaze you

The Vanderbilt Grace sets a new standard for dining in this classy seaport town

Alright, I admit it, this is an outright bribe to seduce you into dining at the Muse by Jonathan Cartwright in the Vanderbilt Grace in Newport. Above is the Flourless Chocolate Cake with Almond Crouquant, White Chocolate Powder and Mint Ice cream. Serge Detalle photo.

Chef Jonathan Cartwright pleases the palate and eye with his creations

By Walter and Patricia Brooks

The room where a sumptuous breakfast was included looked out on the gardens and town. Serge Detalle photo.

Pan Sear Cod Filet and Kennebunkport Lobster Raviolo, Asparagus & Champagne Froth. Serge Detalle photo.

Lobster Spring Roll with Carrot Diakon Radish and Snow Pea in a Thai Inspired Spicy Sweet Sauce. Detalle photo.

Crispy Braise Pork, Pickled Shitake Mushrooms & spiced Reduction. Serge Detalle photo.

Tartar of Dry Aged Beef "Cocktail" with Slow Cooked Free Range Egg, Arugula Salad & Horseradish Ice Cream. Serge Detalle photo.

The garden area was for dining too. Pat Brooks photo.

Part of our living room in our suite. Serge Detalle photo.

To describe the Vanderbilt Grace as a boutique hotel is like describing one of Newport's other mansions as a beach shack.

The recently opened Vanderbilt Grace in Newport Rhode Island is a world class hotel with the type of service one sees only in the very best European hotels.

It is a part of the equally regarded  Grace Hotels Group.

As world class travelers, it takes a lot to impress us, but the Vanderbilt Grace managed to do that from the first minute inside the door as they hand you a glass of champagne. It's a half block up from Newport's shopping thoroughfare, Thames Street, in the middle of this uniquely preserved and spectacular seaport.

First of all the hotel itself is gorgeous and elegant.

Secondly, the service of the staff reminds us of the Taj and Oberoi hotels in India, and like them, they really make you feel catered to and pampered.

A mansion built for love

This in-town mansion was built by Afred Vanderbilt  in 1909, and the former Vanderbilt Hall is a quintessential Newport mansion that in recent years has been restored to its former glory.

Artes Magazine has a facinating story about Alfred and Vanderbilt Hall. It was originally erected by Alfred for Agnes O'Brien Ruiz, wife of the Cuban attaché, who became his mistress after one day managing to bring her unruly horse under control in the city's park.

This fervent affair drew the wrath and indignation of the Vanderbilt family, and it soon came to an end.

Tragically, Ruiz herself was disowned by her husband and committed suicide a few years later.

The Muse by Jonathan Cartwright

However we came not to sleep in a quite beautiful suite in this lover's seraglio, but to dine at an all new fine dining restaurant under the direction of Grace Hotels Group Chef de Cuisine, Jonathan Cartwright called the Muse.

Perhaps the best way to impress you with the elevated status of this restaurant is to tell you that on the menu, which had ten main dishes and six appetizers, there are four which include foie gras.

Regular readers of these reviews are aware that foie gras is my wife's choice for her last meal if she is ever on death row.

Serge Detalle appears

On the night we dined at the Muse last week, I happened to notice a photographer leaving the kitchen laden down with an obviously high quality digital camera and equipment, so being my usual assertive self, I accosted him and asked if he would email us some of the photos he had obviously just taken.

My wife and I are both good photographers, but Serge Detalle's work makes us look like rank amateurs as these photo demonstrate better than any words.

Bringing Serge from Paris to shoot the photos for the hotel's website and promotions, is an indication of this group's attention to detail.

Now the food

We were not disappointed at the meal which followed as the Muse delivers international food and wine with homage to many of the local culinary traditions of Rhode Island.

This hotel's restaurant menu offers selected dishes created by Chef Cartwright including some classic New England favorites.

Grand Chef Relais and Châteaux Jonathan Cartwright is easily one of the most celebrated chefs in New England.

He is also executive chef at Vanderbilt Grace's sister hotel, The White Barn Inn and Spa in Kennebunk, Maine - the only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star dining experience north of New York City.

A lazy summer evening slips by unnoticed

We have often been subjected to overlong dinners where the pace of the presentations is too languid, but we spent over three hours in the Muse, and the time seemed to fly by.

Of course, Chef Cartwright surprised us several times between courses with tiny tastes, and the two servers were efficient and watchful.

The Vanderbilt Grace Hotel website:
Email: res@vanderbiltgrace.com
Phone: (888) 826-4255
Hours of Operation: Dinner: Monday - Thursday: 6:00pm - 9pm, Friday - Sunday: 6pm - 9:30pm, Bar: 11am - 11pm. A jacket is required for dinner.

The pricing: all tasting menus. Four course - $75, five course - $95, and seven course - $120.

Choose the latter and you'll not regret your decision.

And to finish on a sweet note, below is the Graham Cracker Crusted Goat's Milk Cheesecake with Fresh summer berry Salad, Strawberry Sorbet & Candied Almond captured in another outstanding photograph by Serge Detalle, and the front entrance a half block up from Thames Street below that.