A culinary excursion to Providence

In the main dining room a visual tour de force awaits, with sparkling crystal chandeliers and rich burgundy walls serving as a dramatic backdrop to over-sized Renaissance masterpiece paintings in gold leaf frames that dominate the restaurant. Click image to enlarge.

L'Epicureo in the Hotel Providence is a gastronomic delight

By Walter & Patricia Brooks

Increasingly when Cape Codders think "weekend escape", they think Providence rather than Boston.

The reasons are simple and sane;

• The two cities are almost exactly the same distance away
• Providence has a tenth of the traffic, thus closer in time if not in miles
• The entire city is "walkable" and
• Two rivers run through it... and they even have gondolas in them.

So while it may not yet be "New England's Venice", it's a hour's drive to some fabulous eating and shopping.

On a cold February Friday we returned to The Ocean State for another taste of L’Epicureo which had just announced a new executive chef. We also were influenced by our desire to return to the new Hotel Providence which is the home of this very special dining experience.

We also wanted to visit Cape Cod's nearest Nordstrom and Brooks Brothers now that Filene's is no more, and the exciting Providence Place is a great shopping experience three blocks from the hotel.

L’Epicureo, widely recognized as Providence’s premier restaurant, recently appointed a Richard Allaire as its Executive Chef. In Boston, Chef Allaire gained a following at the Bay Tower Room and as a Sous Chef during the opening of Great Bay in the Hotel Commonwealth. In Rhode Island, Mr. Allaire worked his magic at Chez Pascal in Providence and at the exclusive Spiced Pear at The Chanler Hotel on the Cliff Walk in Newport as Saucier.

The Hotel Providence lobby. Click image to enlarge.

An old favorite dining room in a new boutique hotel

L’Epicureo relocated in January 2005 from its venerable Federal Hill location to the Hotel Providence, the city’s first European-style boutique hotel and the Four Diamond Hotel Providence. The landmark property is nestled in the heart of historic downtown at 311 Westminster Street, in the revitalized Downcity Arts and Entertainment District. Since its move, L’Epicureo has expanded operations through additional seating capacity in a new 150-seat venue, access to over 4,000 sq. ft. of banquet and meeting facilities, and a more spacious kitchen to accommodate off-site catering.

We each ordered different entrées, and they were all amazing. The veal osso buco impressed everyone by its presentation. The meat was not sliced into pieces but prepared and served on the bone, shank upright.

And it was prepared to the hilt, moist, full of flavor, tender, and perfect. It was garnished traditionally with a parsley-garlic gremolata that offered a fresh flavor contrast to the meat. In a circle around the plate was an abundant portion of risotto Milanese, again cooked to perfection.

Braised Short Rib and Boneless Short Rib  

Slow Roasted Oven Roasted Lamb Loin
Atlantic Salmon Oven Roasted Lamb Loin

Among the other entrées sampled were

• Two Cuts of Beef: Braised Boneless Short Rib with Caramelized Celery Root, Haricot Vers Roasted Rib Eye, Baby Carrots, Potato Puree, Porcini Mushroom Bordelaise.
• Slow Roasted Atlantic Salmon Braised Leeks, Black Beluga Lentils, Endive, Marmalade, Red Wine Vinaigrette.
• Oven Roasted Lamb Loin Barigoule Ravioli, Seared Eggplant, Grilled Radicchio, Garlic Jus

Bob Levey, longtime food critic at The Boston Globe, always said you can best judge a restaurant by its bread. Most give it short shrift, but a chef who serves superb breads does everything else perfectly as well.

The bread at L’Epicureo included warm Parmesan rolls, and was impeccable.

Our Caesar salad was the perfect and tangy on crisp Romaine lettuce and topped with bruschetta croûtons.

The evening ended on a high note with some delightful desserts including an apple crostada, a banana fazzoletto. The crostada, an open face tart, offered a flaky and light pastry. The apples inside were hot, tender and sweet. Each slice of apple lay side by side. A caramel sauce added perfect sweetness. The banana sweet was caramelized beautifully, the crepe folded into a napkin design, making it both a delight for the eyes and the palate.

Adding to L’Epicureo’s considerable allure are the seductive interiors conceived by the visionary design firm DiLeonardo International.

Guests enter through the glamorous bar and lounge, with its cozy seating areas and seven-foot grand piano autographed by Henry Steinway. 

In the main dining room a visual tour de force awaits, with sparkling crystal chandeliers and rich burgundy walls serving as a dramatic backdrop to over-sized Renaissance masterpiece paintings in gold leaf frames that dominate the restaurant.

L’Epicureo has received worldwide recognition from Gourmet and Bon Appetit, as a Four Diamond establishment  by AAA.  The restaurant delights guests with a breakfast buffet, lunch, dinner and late night fare while function guests enjoy cuisine from simple to sublime, beautifully prepared and expertly served.

The Hotel Providence’s prime downtown location, unmatched style and full complement of amenities draw visitors from all of New England as well as new restaurant patrons. Characterized by handsome architectural details and distinctive interiors punctuated by antiques, the 80-room hotel has received Four Diamonds by AAA in its first year of operation.

Menu: See the extensive menu here.

L'Epicureo Ristorante, 311 Westminster St., Providence, (401) 521-3333, lepicureo.com. Upscale. Reservations accepted. Handicapped accessible. Highchairs. Lunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday. Dinner served 5-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Seasonally al fresco dining in the gated Robert Freeman Park. MC, V, AE, D. Appetizers $5.95 to $19.95; entrées $15.95 to $39.95, desserts $8. Extensive wine list.

Direction; From I-95 North or South (view map) 

• Take Exit 22A Downtown - Memorial Boulevard.
• Drive straight on Memorial Boulevard through four (4) traffic lights.
• At the 5th traffic light, turn right on to Westminster Street.
• Follow Westminster Street to the corner of Mathewson Street.
• Turn right on to Mathewson Street for valet parking.