Marco's in Boston's North End

It was like a scene out of your favorite mob film looking down on Hanover Street from our
window seats at Marco's in Boston's North End.

Achingly authentic ethnic dining in a scene out of Godfather I

By Walter & Patricia Brooks

The tiny room was warm and filled with the smells of Northern Italy.

e eat Northern Italian cooking at least once a week year round, and we've sampled this most popular of all cuisines from Tuscany to Tucson, but never been more satisfied than at this tiny, 45 seat bistro, on the second floor of 253 Hanover Street in Boston's historic and achingly ethnic North End a couple blocks from Faneuil Hall Marketplace.

And it takes a lot to stand out in this neighborhood with a hundred other Italian restaurants. Even our favorite Italian restaurant on the Cape, Alberto's, began life here as Don's Ristorante before transplanting itself in Hyannis.

Marco's dining room decor emphasizes classic simplicity featuring wooden tabletops, exposed brick walls, and elegant hardwood floors. The antique wooden beams running along the ceiling lend the dining room a rustic charm and underscore the calm, clean lines that accentuate the space.

The menu is built on the classic, simple, fresh pastas and antipasti, as well as a healthy servings of grilled meat, fish, and poultry dishes. If you'd rather a small bite, take a seat at the wooden food counter running along side the kitchen and enjoy some antipasti and a glass of wine from the small plate menu which ranges from $4 to $9.

You can count on homemade gnocchi with brown butter and sage, veal ossobuco with risotto Milanese, and lobster scampi which are complimented by delectable side dishes such as rosemary roasted potatoes and fried polenta. Marco also features hearty cuts of Florentine steak cooked on the grill and served with sharp rucola and lemon, as well as a large selection of house-cured salami, prosciutto, bresaola, and capocollo.

You can trust a skinny chef

Several of Marco's dishes are like this Sole Origanato, a basic preparation of oregano, bread crumbs, cheese, parsley, garlic, lemon and olive oil.

The baked clams $11, shrimp $19 and sole $24.

The classic caesar, one of the best we've ever tasted, was served in a huge wooden bowl.

The fried calamari was spicy and delicious.

The mixed grill included succulent flank steak, house made Italian and chicken sausage, bell peppers on a bed of sauteed peppers and onions.

In case you can't decide, Chef Abdoo (below) may bring out the kitchen.

Chef Matthew Abdoo of Marco's. Don't be concerned that he looks too skinny to be a great chef, he bikes a lot to burn it off and will be the guest chef on a Biking Tour of Tuscany next May.

A short walk from Faneuil Hall Marketplace.

Marco is Marc Orfaly, who is chef and owner of Pigalle in the Theater District, is up the steep staircase next door to Caffe Paradiso halfway down the second block in the North End. It is a casual spot that prepares to order regional Italian and Italian-American fare. Matt Abdoo worked alongside Orfaly at Pigalle is Marco's Chef de cuisine and mans the stove here. They are both avid bikers, and in Marc's case, will be featured in a Bike Riders Tour of Provence next September.

Simplicity is Marco's hallmark

Simplicity, of course, is the hallmark of the best Italian cooking. In the most memorable Italian meals, courses succeed or fail based on flavor, not pretentions. At Marco, the food is basic and to the point. Ingredients take center stage, and of the nearly a dozen dishes we sampled, none was less than perfect.

One of Marco's signature preparations is Origanato, a basic preperation with oregano, bread crumbs, cheese, parsley, garlic, lemon and olive oil. We tried all three, the sole, clams and shrimp, and they were all great.

Marco's osso buco ($28) is the real thing - long-simmered veal shanks that fall apart on the fork in rich wine gravy speckled with diced root vegetables. It's accompanied by the traditional saffron-scented risotto Milanese.

The risotto del giorno ($12/$24) was truffled mushroom, expertly prepared, with the correct al dente chew in each kernel.

Below is the regular menu, but Marco also offers a small plate menu with prices ranging from $4 to $9 including Pizza Margheriti.

Main Menu
antipasti
Daily selection of roasted, pickled and grilled vegetables with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt
House-cured salami seasonal house-cured specialties
Oven-baked black mission figs with gorgonzola and pancetta
Clams origanato with bread crumbs, parmigiano and lemon
Fried cod cheeks with hot peppers and crispy ham

seafood antipasto
Salt cod and green olives
Sardines with pickled carrots
Anchovies with cured lemon
Tuna and shaved fennel
Marinated calamari
Eel with balsamic-bacon dressing
Mussels and clams with hot chili oil

insalate
Escarole salad with lemon, olive oil, shaved red onions and toasted walnuts
Insalata di rucola with pancetta, shaved parmigiano, fingerling chips and lemon
Caprese salad with mozzarella, tomatoes and basil

primi
Fedelini con pomodoro with basil, peperoncino and parmigiano
Risotto del giorno
Linguine with clams, sweet garlic and extra virgin olive oil
Orecchiette with homemade sausage and broccoli rape
House made Pasta del giorno

secondi
Chicken cacciatore with pancetta, roasted peppers and riso
Pan seared salmon with sauted spinach, fennel potatoes and saffron aioli
Pork chop Milanese with tomato and rucola salad
Veal saltimbocca
Grilled steak tips with peppers and onions
Lobster with brown butter, zucchini, polenta and toasted walnut polenta
Steamed riso
Peppers and onions

dolci
Panna cotta with seasonal berries
Cannoli
Assorted house made gelato and sorbetto
Tiramisu
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Marco's Hours

Tuesday through Thursday, 5:00 - 10:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Sunday, Family-style dinner with chef's special menu, 4:00 - 9:30 p.m.

Marco's
2nd floor
253 Hanover Street
North End
Boston, MA 02113

p. 617.742.1276
f. 617.523.8865
e. info@marcoboston.com